Experience outback New South Wales on the Darling River Run, an epic 930km road trip that meanders alongside mighty rivers from Walgett in the state’s northwest through to Wentworth in the southwest. You could easily spend a week or two on the road, savouring the many sights along the way, but if you only have five days up your sleeve, here’s how to make the most of your journey.
Highlights:
- Soak in a therapeutic artesian bore
- Spend the night at an authentic outback sheep station
- See striking ancient landscapes at Mungo National Park
Day 1: Walgett–Brewarrina–Bourke
Your road trip begins in Walgett, a historic port on the junction of the Namoi and Barwon rivers in the NSW outback. Enjoy the tranquillity on the Tracker Walford Walkway, a 1.5km interpretive river trail that tells the story of Aboriginal families who lived in the area and was named for Aboriginal tracker Norman Walford. Exercise done, relax in the Walgett Bore Baths, an artesian pool heated naturally to 41.5°C by the ancient waters of the Great Artesian Basin. For good coffee, take a break at Stone’s Throw.
Ninety minutes further on is Brewarrina, on the Barwon River. Here you’ll find an unsung treasure, the heritage-listed Brewarrina Fish Traps. Dating back an estimated 40,000 years, this complex series of holding ponds represents ancient technology at its most ingenious. Learn about this important Aboriginal site at the Brewarrina Aboriginal Cultural Museum, where you can book in a tour. For a caffeine hit with a dose of local art, stop by the quirky Muddy Waters Café & Gallery, with its distinctive fence mural.
An hour on is Bourke. The phrase ‘Back of Bourke’ may represent the outback at its most remote, but this former river port is brimming with history and Aboriginal significance. Stories of bushrangers, poets and early exploration are brought to life at the Back O’Bourke Information and Exhibition Centre; buy a two-day pass and factor in a relaxing cruise on the Jandra paddle vessel, departing twice daily from Kidman’s Camp, 8km north of the township on the banks of the Darling River. Kidman’s Camp offers a range of accommodation options, from camping to luxury chalets, with the bonus of two swimming pools. It’s worth staying for an unforgettable night of bush poetry and a campfire dinner under the starry sky.
Day 2: Bourke–Louth–Tilpa
According to Australian poet Henry Lawson, Louth, 75 minutes southwest of Bourke, was a town that “loved a drink, a party and a punt”. While the unassuming river town is a little sleepier today, it still knows how to throw a party, particularly during the Louth Races festivities each August. For a taste of authentic outback life, visit the vast Trilby Station, a working sheep station with an open-air museum, walking trails and cottage accommodation. A classic outback-pub experience awaits you at Shindy’s Inn, on the banks of the Darling River. Accommodation is also available here in self-contained cabins.
About an hour’s drive from Louth, Tilpa was once an important river port, its timber and corrugated iron hotel dating back to 1894 and symbolising more illustrious times. Today, the town’s main claims to fame are a Boer War memorial commemorating Harry ‘Breaker’ Morant, who worked in the area, and a cemetery which is yet to host a burial.
There’s only one place to fuel up ― the Tilpa Hotel is the heart of the town and serves pub grub and cold beer. Pay to scrawl a message on the walls, with proceeds donated to the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Rest your head at Kallara Station, a certified-organic sheep station offering basic fisherman-hut accommodation as well as comfy lodge rooms. The station offers a range of activities, including fishing, yabbying or punting on the river.